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Borneo - Sipadan

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Borneo - Sipadan

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"I have seen places like Sipadan... 45 years ago.

Now we have found again an untouched piece of art"

1989, the late Jacques-Yves Cousteau

Borneo   ><(((°>   Sipadan, Mabul, Kapalai   ><(((°>   Gallery

Borneo

The mere mention of the word Borneo conjures up a host of vivid images: thick jungle teeming with wildlife, orang-utans swinging through forest canopy, wild rivers, craggy mountains soaring above the steaming lowlands. It is also home to one of the world’s best dive locations: Sipadan, the coral-fringed summit of an oceanic pinnacle in the South China Sea.

The third largest island in the world, Borneo is administratively divided among Indonesia, Malaysia and Brunei. The island is surrounded by the South China Sea to the north and northwest, the Sulu Sea to the northeast, the Celebes Sea to the east and the Java Sea to the south. To the west are the Malay Peninsula and Sumatra. To the south is Java. To the east is Sulawesi and to the northeast is the Philippines.

Sipadan, Mabul, Kapalai

Consistently ranked among the top-10 dive locations in the world, the area of Sipadan offers a perfect combination of pelagic encounters and macro diving. Sipadan is a tiny oceanic island, dropping to a depth of 600m (2,000ft), and has a well-deserved reputation as one of the “big fish world’s capitals”. The nearby Mabul and Kapalai Islands provide a different range of diving opportunities, and are viewed among the international dive community as some of the best spots for macro and muck diving, with an impressive diversity of rare and bizarre critters.

For environmental reasons, all resorts on Sipadan have been closed. The best way to dive the area is by staying on Mabul Island, 20 minutes north of Sipadan. After a one hour land transfer from Tawau airport to Semporna, it takes less than 60 minutes by boat to reach your resort on Mabul Island.

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Information Summary

Diving the Sipadan Area

The Sipadan area’s 40+ dive sites range in depth from 5 to 40 meters (16 to 131ft). Dives can be conducted all year round and the visibility is usually between 15 and 35m (49-115ft), with an average of 20+m (6ft). It takes between 1 and 25 minutes to reach dive spots. Many other dive sites around some of the neighboring islands, such as Sibuan, Mataking, Roach Reef, Siamil etc… can be reached from Mabul in less than an hour.

Because of their depth and reasonable currents, most dive sites on Mabul and Kapalai are accessible to Open Water certified divers. To make the best of your dives on Sipadan, where currents can be strong, we recommend you are an advanced diver.

  • Sipadan: the diversity of marine life involves plenty of big fish encounters: one of the world’s largest schools of barracudas, impressive schools of trevallies and marauding bumphead parrotfishes. Grey reef and white-tip sharks always patrol the area and everywhere you turn you see green and hawksbill turtles. Hammerheads occasionally emerge out of the deep, while eagle and devil rays are commonly spotted. If you look closely at the walls you will see a wealth of macro life, with many different fish and coral species.
 
  • Mabul: for years, this tiny island has been overlooked because of its legendary neighbor. Mabul is now viewed as one of the world’s best locations for macro and muck diving. Sandy bottoms, walls, artificial reefs and jetties are home to some of the most bizarre critters. Pipe-fishes and their ghost cousins are common, the variety of nudibranchs, frog-fishes, crabs, shrimps (mantis, harlequin…) and cephalopods is impressive. Not to mention crocodile and bat fishes, schools of jacks, stargazers, pygmy seahorses, turtles…
 
  • Kapalai: this sandbar (rather than an island) also offers fantastic macro diving. Sandy bottoms, shallow reefs and small walls are home to many of the critters that can be seen on Mabul’s dive sites, such as nudibranchs, clown or giant frog-fishes, octopus etc…. Five wrecks and a resort bungalow lie on a plateau and are populated with groupers, stingrays, schools of jacks, and fascinating macro-life. Mandarin fishes are also spotted daily on a few sites.

For detailed information about what we have seen while diving the Sipadan area, you can review our logbook.

Important information:
In 2005, Sabah National Parks implemented a permit procedure on Sipadan (only), in order to protect this unique underwater environment. Currently, all dive operators share a quota of 120 permits to dive Sipadan daily. Permits are not always distributed on a first-come-first-served basis. We, together with our local partners, will try our outmost to offer you at least one opportunity to spend a day on Sipadan, although we can not guarantee our efforts will always be rewarded.

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Some of the Most Famous Dive Sites and Attractions

Barracuda Point (Sipadan)
This world famous site derives its name from the resident barracudas that often appear in the thousands. The dive starts out as a classic wall dive before coming to a channel in 18m/59ft, which frequently has strong currents. Grey reef sharks are always patrolling or resting on the bottom, which is teeming with life. The shallows feature beautiful corals, where you can literally find tens of turtles.

Seaventures (Mabul)
This site, which varies in depth between 12 and 17m (39-56ft), is sheltered by the structure of an oil rig, providing a unique environment for many strange critters. A fantastic dive for macro fans, where frog-fishes and pygmy seahorses are commonly observed. Cruising around, you may spot giant moray and ribbon eels, ghost pipe-fishes and nudibranchs. What looks like a desolate wasteland is home to a flourishing marine community.

Mandarin Valley (Kapalai)
A coral slope which goes down to around 20m (66ft). The highlights are the vibrant Mandarin fish performing their mating ritual over the corals. This site is also home to many rare and bizarre critters: harlequin ghost pipe-fishes, frog-fishes, stone-fishes, octopus… A little deeper lies the wreck of a small fishing boat, where groups of cuttle-fishes often gather together.

Turtles
Around Sipadan Island, it is not uncommon to spot over 40 turtles in a single dive. Divers and snorkelers are to refrain from touching, riding, teasing and restraining turtles, as they are air breathers and can be drowned if panicked or cornered.

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SMART Dive Center

Whether you chose to stay at Mabul Water Bungalows or at Sipadan Mabul Resort, you will dive with SMART, a Padi 5 Star Dive Resort. The 2 SMART dive centers are located right on the shore, one minute away from each resort’s accommodation. They operate 13 custom-built fiberglass dive boats powered by 2*115 and 2*150 Yamaha engines. 3 boat dives are organized daily, with unlimited shore diving, including night dives – Waterlines recommends not to exceed 4 dives per day.

Please note that, for your own safety, your first dive will be an orientation dive. If you have not been diving for more than 12 months, or if you exhibit uncertainty in your skills, a Scuba Refresher will be required. This is to ensure that the dive center knows your abilities and can put similar experienced divers together in a group.

Other facilities include a Technical Diving Center (SMART-Tec) that offers services such as Nitrox Air and TDI Certification Courses and an underwater video center for u/w videography courses.

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Seaventures Dive Center

Seaventures' dive center, a Padi 5 Star Dive Resort, is located on the main deck of the platform. To go diving, you take an elevator that drops you on the dive boat or on the rig’s fantastic dive site. The dive center operates 4 boats powered by 2*150hp Yamaha engines.

Three boat dives are organized daily, with unlimited diving on the platform's house reef, including night dives – Waterlines recommends not to exceed 4 dives per day.

Please note that, for their own safety, all guests’ first dive will be an orientation dive. This is to ensure that the dive center knows your abilities and can put similar experienced divers together in a group.

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Technical and Admin Information

Technical Information, SMART:
  • rental equipment: Scubapro, Cressi and Seac Sub
  • 12 liter aluminum tanks (international and DIN cylinder valves), weights and weight belts are provided
  • night dives possible every night, torches can be rented
  • Nitrox available
 
Technical Information, Seaventures:
  • rental equipment: Pro Blue wetsuits, BCDs, and regulators
  • 11 liter aluminum tanks (international cylinder valves, DIN adaptors can not be provided), weights and weight belts are provided
  • night dives possible every night, torches can be rented
  • Nitrox available
 
Required diving equipment and documents:
  • logbook - dive certification card
  • medical clearance for scuba diving from a physician, issued within the last 12 months
  • evidence of repatriation insurance

Recommended diving equipment and documents: a magnifying glass, 3 or 5mm wetsuits and torch, dive computer, safety sausage, insurance covering dive-related injuries (DAN or equivalent)

The closest hyperbaric chamber is located in Semporna, all dives are within no-decompression limits.

 

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Other Activities and Kids' Corner

Mabul is a small island with coconut trees, dive resorts, and a small village. It does not take more than 45 minutes to walk around it.

Other than activities offered by our partnering resorts (they are listed in the Accommodation section of the website), there is not much to do, as it is not possible to go to Borneo for a day trip. We recommend non-divers bring plenty of books or their laptop, unless they enjoy lounging on the beach for hours or relaxing at the spa.

It is, however, worse visiting the island and its village of fishermen, to understand how local people live.

Activities available at Sipadan-Mabul resort, where kids are allowed and welcome, are suitable to children. In addition, the resort's staff will be happy to take care of them while you are diving (baby sitting is free, tipping is appreciated).

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Mabul Water Bungalows

The resort is located on Mabul Island and overlooks Sipadan. It is comprised of 15 high-end wooden-type bungalows built on stilts, each boasting contemporary décor, A/C, ceiling fan, private bathroom with hot water, satellite TV, mini-bar, safety box and spacious balcony with panoramic view. Rooms are serviced daily and towels are provided.

The large and airy restaurant is connected to the bungalows by wooden walkways, and serves buffet-style Asian and Western food. Guests can also have their meals at the nearby Smart Divers Resort. Hot and cold drinks are available 24 hours a day, mid morning snacks are served.

Other facilities include a luxury spa offering massage, restful milk bath and ginger compress treatments, a souvenirs shop, and a business center. WiFi internet is available and free if using your own computer. All guests are provided with a bicycle and benefit from unrestricted access to all activities and facilities offered at the neighboring Smart Divers’ resort.

For safety reasons, Waterlines will not accommodate families with kids under 12.

Sipadan-Mabul Resort

Situated 5 minutes walk away from Mabul Water Bungalows, Smart Divers Resort is nestled in a coconut grove and features 45 chalets built of native materials: 23 feature 2 rooms independent from one another, while the remaining 22 are stand-alone accommodations. All chalets boast mosquito screens, en-suite bathroom with hot shower, and A/C. All rooms are serviced every day and towels are provided.

A large dining area is used for meals, socializing, dancing and staff shows. The restaurant serves buffet-style Asian and Western food.

Other facilities and activities include an underwater video center, a swimming pool, a Jacuzzi, a beach volley ball court, and a small sundry shop. Ocean kayaks are available and fishing trips can be organized. WiFi internet access is also available and free if using your own computer.

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Seaventures

Seaventures Dive Resort results from the conversion of an oil rig, which started life as an engineering platform in Panama around 25 years ago, before it was towed to Singapore. After several years on Labuan, where it was used as a fishing village, the rig was moved to where it lies now and has been for the last 10 years: 500 meters off Mabul Island.

This one-of-a-kind resort features 15 twin-share rooms and 6 double rooms, all boasting A/C and attached private bathrooms with hot water. Rooms are serviced daily and towels are provided.

The restaurant is located on the main deck, and serves buffet-style Asian and Western food. Dinners are occasionally served on what used to be the oil rig’s helipad and became a wooden sundeck with an incredible 360 degree view of Mabul and the coastline of Borneo. Hot and cold drinks and snacks are available 24 hours a day.

The resort also provides free WiFi internet access, a karaoke lounge and bar, a movie room, a games room with snooker and tennis table, a sundry shop and a conference room.
 
For safety reasons, Waterlines will not accommodate families with kids under 12.
 
Important notice: Seaventures’ sundeck, games and conference rooms are currently under renovation (which does not create any disturbance –noise, visual etc…- to our guests)

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Required and Recommended Equipment and Documents

In addition to your documents related to your repatriation insurance (and for divers: your logbook, dive certification card and a medical clearance for scuba diving), you will need:

  • your passport, which must be valid for a minimum of six months beyond intended date of entry into Malaysia
  • nationals of most countries are given a 30- to 90-day visa on arrival

Commonwealth citizens (except those from India, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Pakistan) and citizens of Austria, Belgium, the Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Switzerland, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Norway, Slovakia, South Africa, South Korea, Sweden, the USA, Canada and most Arab countries should not require a visa for a visit of less than three months.
Citizens of many South American and African countries do not require a visa for a visit not exceeding one month. Most other nationalities are given a shorter stay period or require a visa. Citizens of Israel cannot enter Malaysia. For more information, see the website of the Malaysian Ministry of Foreign Affairs

We also recommend you bring with you:
  • sun cream
  • mosquito repellent
  • adaptor-plugs
  • a flashlight, which might be helpful to find your way back home at night
  • batteries

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How to get there/Flight information

From Kuala Lumpur (KL) airport, fly directly (or via Kota Kinabalu) to Tawau airport, where our local partner will be waiting for you. From there, it takes approximately 1 hour to reach Semporna Jetty, where you will be transferred to Mabul by speedboat, which takes approximately 45 minutes. Depending on your time of arrival you, might have to spend a night in Semporna (Waterlines can book accommodation for you).

Although we strongly recommend you carefully compare airfares, Air Asia's airfares are usually competitive.  If you prefer to fly Malaysia Airlines, please contact us as we can sometimes obtain competitive rates. Air Asia operates flights from many cities not listed below, the information provided below is non exhaustive and for information purpose only. For more details, please visit www.airasia.com

From Shanghai: Air Asia does not operate from Shanghai. You can either fly from Shanghai to KL, and then to Tawau with Malaysian Airlines, or take the train to Hangzhou, from where Air Asia operates direct flights to KL.

From Hangzhou: direct afternoon flights to KL with Air Asia

From Beijing: Air Asia does not operate from Beijing. One of our partners can sometimes get competitive airfares from other airlines, such as Malaysian Airlines. Please contact us.

From Guangzhou: morning and evening flights to KL

From Shenzhen: morning and evening flights to KL. Afternoon direct flight to Kota Kinabalu.

From Hong Kong: morning, afternoon and evening flights to KL

From Macau: morning, afternoon and evening flights to KL. Depending on weekdays, direct evening flights to Kota Kinabalu.

From Singapore: several direct flights to KL, daily. Afternoon direct flight to Kota Kinabalu. Depending on weekdays, direct flights to Tawau.

From Manila: late morning flights to KL. Afternoon direct flights to Kota Kinabalu.

From Taipei: afternoon or overnight flights, depending on weekdays, from Taipei to KL. Morning, direct flights to Kota Kinabalu.

From Saigon: morning, afternoon and evening flights to KL

From Hanoi: morning, afternoon and evening flights to KL

From Jakarta: several direct flights to KL, daily. Direct flights to Kota Kinabalu, depending on weekdays.

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Health and Safety

No vaccination is required to enter Malaysia. Travelers should, however, take precautions against mosquitoes, including daytime in urban areas to avoid dengue fever, and night-flights by malarial critters. Hepatitis A vaccine is worthwhile. Rabies is an ever present problem in Malaysia, and any animal bite should be treated very seriously. Leeches can be a nuisance on jungle walks.

Full medical insurance, including medical evacuation outside of your country of residence, is mandatory. We also advise scuba divers to ensure their personal insurance covers dive related injuries. Should you consider joining DAN Asia-Pacific and become a member, please click here

Most towns of Malaysian-Borneo are usually safe, but the general rule of not showing off your wealth is advisable as pick-pocketing is a danger, while robbery is rare and violent attacks are uncommon. However, the usual travel precautions apply, such as restraining your urge to go wandering around seedy areas alone late at night and not leaving valuables or important documents unattended. Credit-card fraud is a growing problem so only use your cards at established businesses.

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History and Culture

People are thought to have been living on Borneo for more than 35,000 years, in nomadic or semi-nomadic communities. Perhaps 3,000 years ago, foreign traders began to visit the island but it was around 500 years ago that significant changes came about. The first Westerners to arrive were the Portuguese in 1521, followed by the Spanish soon after. The Dutch came at the beginning and the British in the middle of the 17th century. Islam arrived and various settlements were established along the coast: most important of these was Brunei. The European superpowers began to wrest control from the local rulers and coastal Borneo roughly became divided between the British and the Dutch. Though impacting strongly on the coastal regions, Islam, Christianity and colonialism in general rarely affected life in Borneo's interior, an area deemed too impenetrable for most outsiders.

In 1840, James Brooke, a British army officer, helped the Sultan repress rebel tribes. In recognition of his services, he was made "rajah" and established Kuching as capital of Sarawak. Known as the White Rajahs, Brooke's descendants continued to rule Sarawak until the Japanese brutally occupied Borneo between 1942 and 1945. After the Second World War, Kalimantan, which takes approximately 70% of Borneo’s area, separated itself politically from the rest of the island and became part of Indonesia in 1963. The same year Sarawak and Sabah broke free from British rule and joined the federation of Malaysia. Brunei became independent in 1984.
Tapping in to Borneo's natural resources had begun before the British and Dutch left, in the form of exploratory drilling for oil (which was discovered in 1888). With independence came a rush to benefit financially from the land's riches, such as gold, diamonds, coal, bauxite and iron ore. The oil industry has also boomed during years of largely unregulated industrial logging. Illegal hardwood logging and forest fires have meant that one-third of the island has already been deforested.

Today, Borneo's large areas of dense tropical forests and mountainous terrain mean that it has a relatively low population of around 16 million. There are few roads and vast tracts of thick forest are uninhabited - except for passing nomadic tribespeople – and many villages can only be reached by boat. The island is home to dozens of different ethnic groups speaking nearly 100 dialects. The largest tribe is the Dayak. Their native ethnic groups are Dayak Austronesians and their languages belong to the Malayo-Polynesian language family. There are over 30 Dayak sub-ethnic groups, making the population of Borneo one of the most varied of human social groups. Some sub-ethnicities are now represented by only 30-100 individuals and are threatened with extinction. Their ancestral knowledge of ethno-botany and ethno-zoology is useful in drug discovery or as future alternative food sources. Much culture, language, ethno-music and traditional knowledge has yet to be documented by anthropologists.

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Country Facts and Practical Information

  • Climate: equatorial in the state of Sabah. Temperatures rarely rise above 32°C (90°F) or drop below 20°C (68°F) along the coastal areas.  The wetter period occurs during the North East Monsoon, from October to February, and the drier season during the South West Monsoon, from March to September.
 
  • Population:  28.5 million in Malaysia, approx. 16 million in Borneo, including approx. 4 million in Malaysian Borneo
 
  • Language: the official language in Malaysia is the Bahasa Melayu. Chinese (Hakka and Hokkien dialects), Tamil and English are also spoken. Borneo is home to dozens of ethnic groups speaking nearly 100 dialects.
 
  • Religions: Islam is the state religion of Malaysia, freedom of worship is respected. The Malays are almost all Muslims. The Chinese embrace an eclectic brew of Taoism, Buddhism and ancestor worship. In Borneo, major religions are Christianity (29%), Islam (26%), Buddism-Taoism (17%) and animist traditions.
     
  • Electricity: electric current is 220-240 V, 50 Hz, and uses the British BS-1363 three pin plugs
 
  • Time difference: GMT +8 hours (excluding daylight saving time considerations)
 
  • Telephone: international access code 00, country code 60. Mobile phones can be used on Mabul Island with roaming for international customers. Local prepaid SIM-Cards can also be purchased.
 
  • Internet: it can be accessed from the resorts, however, even high-speed connections can be very slow
 
  • Currency: the official currency is the Malaysian Ringgit (MYR)
 
  • ATM & cash: there are ATM machines in Tawau airport and in Semporna. No ATM machine on Mabul island. Credit cards are accepted

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